Saturday, November 28

Farmer's Market, Tokyo

Before lunch at Beacon's, we strolled around the Shibuya / Omotesando area and stumbled upon this Farmer's Market at the United Nations University. How lucky of us huh?

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Though it wasn't a huge affair, I loved walking through it. Arh, I'm such a sucker for farmers' markets.

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Thursday, November 26

Tonchin, Tokyo

We had the simple street ramen for last dinner in Tokyo.

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Tonchin is a popular chain but we didn't have to wait long as it was only 6pm and bar-counter seats weren't exactly linger-friendly. It's interesting to note that the XL, L and M sizes cost the same.

Actually, simple is not exactly the word I would use to describe Tonchin's ramen.

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There's nothing meek about Tonchin's broth. The miso-pork broth was creamy, hearty and almost opaque. The noodles were thick-ish and when the guy prepared our ramen, he gave a swift swat before transferring it into the bowl. Did that make the noodles bouncier or chewier? I don't know but it sure made for a good theatrical performace. The char siew was heart-achingly tender, unlike anything I ever had in Singapore.

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Tonchin
1-11-10 Shinjuku
Tel: 03-3207-5887
Tokyo
And various outlets

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Tuesday, November 24

Le Jardin Bleu by Chef Hukuda Masayuki, Tokyo

I know what you must be thinking, how many pastries can one person in a week?!

Too many, I admit. And this will thankfully be the last post on pastries. In Tokyo, at least.

The one patisserie that I wanted to try out was Pastisserie at Takashimaya Times Square. Whenever I descended into the food basement (which was pretty darn often), I would be greeted by perfectly-coiffed pastries sitting pretty in their glass cases. But until recently, I've never approached the glass cases with enough stomach room and the bar counter seats were usually fully occupied.

One morning – still full from last night’s dinner at Mizutani – we wandered into Takashimaya Times Square and scored ourselves a couple of pastries and seats. Turns out the Pastisserie showcases several well-known patissiers on a rotation basis. There were at least six patissiers and forty over pastries to choose from and we picked two by Le Jardin Bleu by Chef Hukuda Masayuki.

Why hello, my pretties.

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Turns out the Patisserie showcases several well-known pastissiers on a rotation basis. Though there were at least six patissiers and forty over pastries to choose from, we picked two by Le Jardin Bleu by Chef Hukuda Masayuki.

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More than a shell, the sable-like tart bottom provided a buttery base for fruit confiture, custard and mixed berried.

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The mixed berries custard tart. The tart shell reminded me of a butter sable and had been smeared with some fruit confiture. The custard within was not Toshi Yoroshiku-light but I couldn't complain.

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Walnut bits and coffee mousse, covered in rich chocolate glaze, accented with disturbingly-good walnut toffee brittle and a coffee macaron. Gorgeous.

Simple but strong flavours and exquisite technique, they were truly timeless desserts.

Patisserie Takashimaya
Takashimaya Times Square
5-24-2 Sendagaya
Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

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Sunday, November 22

Tsukiji Market, Tokyo

This was my second trip to Tsukiji.

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We had breakfast at Sushi Bun. The 150 year old sushi bar is also known as "No. 3," after Sushi Dai and Daiwa Sushi. The queue was just as long though and we waited for about 30 minutes.

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There are two sushi omakase sets available. At first, I ordered a sashimi set but it wasn’t enough. So I order an additional uni and otoro sushi. Learn from my mistakes – stick with sushi, folks! They also serve the sushi on leaves (instead of a wooden board). I have no idea how if that truly heightens the sushi experience but it made me feel good.

The sushi and sashimi were incredibly fresh – a bonus from having the largest wholesale fish market at your backyard. You know it’s going to be a good day when you have sushi for breakfast at Tsukiji. I can just feeeeel it in my bones.

If I ever visit Tsukiji, I will try one of the less famous sushi joints (ok, I admit I’ve already spotted one) and see if there is a difference.

Sushi Bun
5-2-1 #8 Tsukiji-Shijo
Tokyo
Tel: 3541-3860

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Friday, November 20

Sushi Mizutani, Tokyo

If you have never had sushi in your life or are just growing out of an allergy towards raw fish and vinegared rice, Sushi Mizutani is probably not a good place to start learning about sushi.

It could kill you. Do you in for the rest of your life. Re-commit yourself to sushi abstinence till you finally save up enough pennies for this three Michelin Star sushi joint.

Like the decor and chef, the sushi here is deceivingly unassuming and fiercely traditional. Don't count on any ikura-uni-otoro- layered-and-aburied fancy footwork. Each identical piece is moulded by the Chef Hachiro Mizutani who has more than four decades worth of experience. Before it is served, a noted brushstroke of shoyu glazes the sushi.

Then, Pop! A single mouthful and it is gone.

What we had:
Engawa
Iwashi
Maguro
Chutoro
Otoro
Scallop
Mirugai
Akagai
Awabi
Sayuri
Saba
Anago
Ika
Uni
Tamago - A Sushi Mizutani signature with almost molten insides. Reminded me of a honey castella cake

The epitome of restrained elegance, the ten-seater hides away at the basement of Seiwa Building. Hardly any English is spoken or written, adding to the thrill of omakase. I think I had difficulty breathing normally in there, worried that my quick breathing would disrupt the controlled serenity of the place.

Sushi Mizutani
Ginza Seiwa Silver Building
B1 8-2-10 Ginza
Tokyo
Tel: 03-3573-5258

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Wednesday, November 18

Breizh Café Crêperie, Tokyo

We struck burnished-gold with lunch at Breizh Café Crêperie Don’t you just love their French countryside décor? And the waiteresses were clad in chic-as-hell Breton sailor’s uniform that everyone wants this season.

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Related to the popular Creperie Le Bretagne, Breizh Café Crêperie specializes in buckwheat crep-, oh excusez moi, galettes.

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In anticiaption of our heavy (on the gut and pocket) dinner later on, we went for the most basic set that came with a salad, galette and coffee / tea. The salad was lightly-dressed with a vinaigrette dressing. Simple but pleasantly so.

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We had one the spinach, egg and gruyere cheese, and another with mushrooms, ham and gruyere cheese.

I love spinach. Makes me feel really healthy ordering it, as if I’m repenting for my multitude of sugar-laden sins. Big grin.

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The other galette was of course lovely too. Both galettes had spent enough time on the pan, and earned their deserving crispness and brown-butter façade.

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If it were 3-5 degrees warmer, I would have loved to seat outside. They have scarves for everybody but I would need a warmer for my crepes. Haha. Located on the 13th floor of Takashimaya Times Square, I sure felt on top of the world with our delicious galettes.

Breizh Café Crêperie
At various locations

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Monday, November 16

Toshi Yoroizuka & Sadaharu Aoki, Tokyo

It had to be done.

Somebody had to take these pretty cakes, plunge his fork in and declare their sacred delicateness fit for an afternoon splurge.

But before the carnage...

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At a very apt location, outside the 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT at Tokyo Midtown, we tucked into edible works - handcrafted pastries from Toshi Yoroizuka & Sadaharu Aoki. The weather looks fantastic but it was actually so cold that day.

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At 2:45pm, I was most pleased to see a lack of queue outside Toshi Yoroizuka but before breaking into my victory dance, the guy manning the front (door biatch?) told me to leave my name down and return at 5:15pm for a seat inside the patisserie.

5 – friggin – 15.

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Because I don’t have a habit of practicing delayed gratification, especially when the lovelies are IN FRONT OF ME, we picked up three slices and moved onto Sadaharu Aoki.

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Toshi Yoroizuka's chocolate mousse, tarte tartin and choux pistachio were feverishly exquisite. Between the three, my favourite was …. Wait, I can’t do that. Don’t make me choose - that would be like picking favourites among my kids.

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On my last trip to Tokyo, I loved Sadaharu's genmaicha eclair and had rather high hopes for his cakes. This time round, we picked up his Mille Feuille and Mont D’or.

The Mille Feuille was easy to love. Impossible to eat with a fork without spattering precious crumbs all over, we ate the Mille Feuille with our hands - and don’t we all know the power of eating something with our hands.

However, the Mont D’or’s flavours were mish-mashed and not as clear cut as the Mille Feuille or any of Yoroizuka's. The pastries were good but with Toshi Yoroizuka in the picture, Sadaharu's slices were "not as", as in not as delicate, not as harmonious and not as gratifying.

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When I came home on Saturday, my younger sister kindly informed me, your face looks rounder.

Though I knew these five pastries had something to do with that, I replied, it’s due to a lack of sleep.

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